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Barbarian Days

Regular price $13.83 $1.00 93% off
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Barbarian Days

Regular price $13.83 $1.00 93% off
Unit price
per
ISBN: 9781472151391
Authors: William Finnegan
Publisher: Corsair
Date of Publication: 2015-08-06
Format: Paperback
Related Collections: History, Sports, Travel, Biographies & Memoirs
Goodreads rating: 4.27
(rated by 31128 readers)

Description

Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa, Peru and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.
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