Barbarian Days : A Surfing Life

Regular price $6.06
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Barbarian Days : A Surfing Life

Regular price $6.06
Unit price
per
ISBN: 9781472151414
Authors: Finnegan William
Publisher: HACHETTE
Date of Publication: 2016-05-18
Format: Paperback
Related Collections: Travel, Sports, History, Biographies & Memoirs
Goodreads rating: 4.27
(rated by 31092 readers)

Description

WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 WINNER OF THE 2016 WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR PRIZE Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.
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